L’influence de New York sur la mode
ModeDeRue | Publié le 26/11/2007 13:08:35
Philipp Lim, styliste new-yorkais prometteur, a présenté en septembre dernier une version revue et corrigée des jupes droites des working girls : taille haute et jaune fluo pour un ensemble détonnant. Il a ouvert, quelques mois auparavant, sa première boutique dans le célèbre quartier de Soho et vend ses silhouettes dans 26 pays.
Dereck Lam, jeune styliste d’origine asiatique a fait ses premières armes à New York, et propose des modèles chics, faciles à porter et intemporels. Reconnu comme un véritable génie par la presse féminine, il est actuellement directeur artistique de Tod’s, la célèbre marque italienne. En France, ses collections sont en vente au Bon Marché. Nombreux sont les autres créateurs qui dévoilent leurs premières collections à NYC. Erin Fetherston, créatrice d’origine californienne, a présenté lors de la Fashion Week de l’automne, des jupes en crêpe gris, des blouses vieux rose et des robes avec manteaux printaniers, un style romantique, élégant et classique qui a été très applaudi. Elle arrive ; le monde de la mode va devoir compter sur elle. Mais, ce ne sont là que quelques exemples de nouveaux talents, car New York compte aussi de nombreux autres créateurs de renommée mondiale, qui apportent leurs propres touches.
Tommy Hilfiger, qui a proposé dernièrement le pyjama en total look, annonçant ainsi le retour des rayures. Donna Karan, toujours à l’affût de tenues confortables, pratiques et féminines, dont nous n’oublions pas ses chères «7 easy pieces» et qui a ceinturé la robe rayée pour l’été 2008 afin de la rendre plus glamour. Ralph Lauren, qui outre son style sportswear, présente aussi des mousselines imprimées pour robes chics. Mais aussi, Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein, Vera Wang …
Et enfin, le célèbre Marc Jacobs, sans lequel nous ne pourrions pas terminer un article concernant New York et la mode. Celui qui s’est offert le luxe de faire attendre la foule pendant deux heures avant de dévoiler sa collection printemps-été 2008 «chic and trash», celui qui fait l’unanimité aux quatre coins de la planète, celui sans lequel on n’imagine plus une Fashion Week, a encore surpris, il y a quelques mois, dans l’ancienne armurerie de Manhattan. Soie mélangée au vinyl, rouge, vert pâle ou violet, blouses de ménagères échancrées, imprimés nature morte déjantés, tenues de nos grand-mères remises au goût du jour : des styles que toutes les fashion victims se presseront d’acquérir dans ses boutiques de Bleecker Street ou du Palais Royal, au printemps prochain.
Oui, New York influence la mode et n’est plus désormais synonyme de sportswear. Véritable vitrine pour certains créateurs ou vivier de nouveaux talents émergents, cette ville a désormais sa place dans le monde de la mode. Elle apporte un souffle nouveau, délirant, coloré et jeune : son propre grain de sel !
Mais, il faut aussi citer Anvers, où est né le groupe des six, avec à sa tête Dries Van Noten, Tokyo, où la passion pour la création du simple et classe est incontestable, Londres, le temple du chic pour gentlemen et des looks multiples allant du vintage à l’avant-garde, et Milan, pour son design incontournable.
Les capitales de la mode ne sont plus exclusives ; elles sont toutes des sources de tendances pour notre plus grand plaisir ! À vous de choisir ce qui vous convient le mieux entre la France, l’Italie, l’Angleterre, et le Japon, en passant par New York pour créer votre mode.
De notre correspondante à New-York : Anne Corrons
Nos autres articles sur New-York :
- Welcome to New York !
- Le 10022 Shoe à New-York : le temple de la chaussure
- Branchez-vous sur le Lower East Side !
Discover how New York influences fashion
If Paris became the capital of fashion under Louis XIV, today, for many French people, it’s still obvious. Fashion happens in the French capital! And, what if New York also influenced styles and trends from the other side of the Atlantic Ocean?
People see New York as the city where all the dreams can become reality, the city that never sleeps, and that looks for new things all day. Here, the future, money, and success are mixed every day. You come to New York for cultural events, for adventures, or out of passion and curiosity. You can’t miss this city. However, NYC also offers a complex and paradoxical image composed of many diverse international communities, limos, homeless people on the streets, modernity, and traditions. Open to youth and to any idea no matter how crazy, New York pays homage to innovations and new movements. Avant-garde is its motto and NYC focuses on it every day. That may be why lots of designers launched their collections here. Since they were caught by this perpetual fever, they dared to do it. If the world belongs to those who wake up early, the world should also provide an atmosphere where everything is possible. Then, every thing goes very quickly; you succeed or you fail. If you fail, no one will remember you a few weeks later. On the other hand, if you succeed in convincing and seducing New-Yorkers, the USA will be at your feet. And after, your designs may even cross the Atlantic; they may be displayed at Colette in Paris and you may go to the catwalks with the famous designers. From time to time, it seems that all new trends start in New York - by the way, the fashion weeks begin there- to arrive to Europe.
Sometimes when they cross this ocean they get lost; sometimes, they become a real success. We could take some examples such as Alice Ritter, a French designer who came to the USA to try her luck with her creations in a Brooklyn store. The sales increased, Barneys noticed her, and Colette in Paris soon carried her collections. Now, she also has her own catwalk at the New York shows.
Last September, Philipp Lim, a brilliant New-York designer, introduced a new version of the straight working girls skirt: a surprised ensemble composed of a high-belted skirt with flashy yellow accents. A few months ago, he opened his first boutique in famous Soho, and he sells his collections in 26 countries.
Derek Lam, a young designer from Asia, cut his teeth in New York, and presents chic, easy to wear, and timeless designs. He was recognized as a real genius by the whole feminine press. Now, he is the artistic director of Tod’s, the famous Italian brand. In France, we can now find his collections at Bon Marché.
Many other designers also showed their first creations in NYC. During the most recent Fall fashion week, Erin Fetherston, a designer from California, presented grey crepe skirts, old pink smocks, and dresses with spring coats. This romantic, elegant and classic style debuted to great aclaim. She is coming; the fashion world will cede her a place. But, these are just some examples of new talents because New York also counts many internationally renowned designers who bring their own touches.
Tommy Hilfiger : he recently offered the total look pajama and announced the comeback of stripes.
Donna Karan : she always looks for comfortable, practical and feminine clothes. We will never forget her 7 easy pieces! She showed striped dresses with belts to make them even more glamorous.
Ralph Lauren : in addition to his sportswear style, he also presented printed muslins for chic dresses. But, we could also talk about Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein, Vera Vang, and many others…
And, finally, we couldn’t finish this article about New York and fashion without the famous Marc Jacobs. The one who dared to make the crowd wait for 2 hours before showing his chic and trash Spring 2008 collection, the one who is recognized all over the world, the one without whom we can’t imagine a Fashion Week, surprised again people at the old armory of Manhattan. Silk mixed with vinyl, red, pale green, purple, housewives high-cut shirts, crazy still life printed fabrics, refreshed grandmothers’ dresses: some designs that all fashionistas will rush to buy at Bleecker Street or Palais Royal boutiques, next spring.
Obviously, New York influences fashion, and it’s not a synonym for sportswear anymore. From now on, this city, that can be a showcase for some designers or the birthplace for young talent, has its place in the fashion world. It brings a new, extravagant, colorful, and young breath : its own personal touch! However, we also have to name Anvers, where the group of six was born, with Dries Van Noten, Tokyo, where the passion for simple and chic design is unquestionable, London, the reference for chic gentlemen and multiple looks from avant-garde to vintage, and Milan for its incontrovertible design.
World capitals are not mutually fashionably exclusive anymore; they are all now trend setters for our pleasure! It’s up to you to choose what best fits you between France, Italy, England and Japan, via New York to create your own look.